A toast to champagne and sparkling wines

In December, we traveled across the ocean to talk about one of nature’s gifts, champagne! Champagne is a wine region in France, so only wines from this area can be properly called Champagne. Any “champagne” produced outside of this region of France must be called sparkling wine.

No other drink in the world symbolizes a celebration better than champagne / sparkling wine. These drinks help usher in the New Year, as well as weddings, birthdays, promotions, and any other special occasion. This time of year is when approximately 80 percent of this drink is consumed. At the holidays, my caterer likes to set up a sparkling station near the front door to greet guests with a festive glass of champagne.

Wine speaks

The Champagne region of France is located about 90 miles northeast of Paris. In the late 17th century, French champagnes were formally recognized as a new style of wine. Champagne’s unique effervescence is due to the cooler climate of northern France. The grapes from this region had generally not fully ripened or fermented in the fall, when the wines are traditionally placed in barrels. During the winter, the champagne was dormant and then began to ferment once more in the spring. This resulted in a fizzy drink that was cloudy, due to spent yeast floating in the kegs. At the time, this was considered an inferior product.

The French in the Champagne region created a new process to clarify their drink. Instead of the traditional barrel aging and storage, champagne was the first wine to be stored and aged in individual corked bottles. This new process, Methode Champenois, (still in use today) involves inverting the bottles on the shelves and gently turning the bottles (riddles) to help the yeast build up on the bottle neck.

The neck of the bottle is then dipped in a brine solution that freezes the yeast section. The bottle is opened to expel the yeast plug (disgorgement), resulting in a clear drink. The champagne is then completed with still wine (not fermented) that is reserved for this purpose. A small amount of yeast and sugar is added to the bottle and then capped. This starts the second fermentation process. As the yeast consumes the sugar, a small amount of alcohol and carbon dioxide is created. This allows the bottle to regain its fizz.

Today there are around 100 Champagne Houses in the Champagne region sourcing grapes or grape juice from more than 15,000 local producers. Given the cooler climate, the faster maturing grape varieties are used exclusively in this region; Chardonnay (used exclusively in Blanc de Blancs), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (used with Chardonnay in Blanc de Noirs and Roses). There are three different methods of producing champagne; the traditional Champenois method where the wines are fermented in individual bottles, the Charmat process where the wines are fermented in large steel vats and thirdly, the artificial carbonation process where the wine is injected with carbon dioxide, which is the focus cheaper (and can cause headaches). Quality champagnes cost more due to the winery’s use of higher quality grapes, the blending of still and aged wines, and the cost of storing bottled champagne for years before its release.

There are three different styles of champagne or sparkling wines, ranging from light to medium to full bodied (depending on the amount of time the yeast stays in contact with the wine). Additionally, the sweetness levels of sparkling wine vary from Brut (dry) to Extra Dry (semi-sweet) to Doux (sweet).

Food and wine pairings

As we discussed, the holidays are when most sparkling wines are consumed. They tend to be food-friendly due to their higher acidity levels. This refreshing drink is an ideal aperitif (lighter style is best) or can be used during a meal (heavier and yeastier styles). They tend to go well with spicy and salty dishes. When served as an appetizer, my caterer tends to pair the lighter-style sparklers with sushi, smoked salmon canapes, garlic shrimp crostini, spicy sautéed chicken, and grilled ahi tuna kabobs with wasabi aioli. They also pair well with goat cheese and semi-soft white cheeses that offer mild flavors.

Sparkling wines have been a house favorite for years. Personal California favorites that I recommend include Schramsberg and Domaine Carneros, who we visited last October. On the French side, a smaller house that is getting high praise is Charles Ellner, whose Brut Champagne Seduction ($ 65) and Brut Reserve ($ 40) offer excellent value for money. Here are suggestions from local Champagnes and sparkling wine merchants and their retail prices, which may vary:

Selections

$ 10 range

Pierre Delize Non-Vintage (NV) Blanc de Blancs – France – $ 7

Domaine Ste. Michelle (NV) Brut Columbia Valley – Washington State – $ 12

Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut Nature – Spanish Sparkling – $ 10

Rotari Brut – Italian Sparkling (not from Asti region) – $ 12

Daniel Pardiac Brut Blanc de Blancs – France – $ 12

$ 25 – ranges of 40

Roederer Estate (NV) Brut – Anderson Valley, CA – $ 22

Domaine Carneros Brut Carneros – Napa Valley, CA – $ 25

Schramsberg Brut Blanc de Noir – Napa / Sonoma Counties, CA – $ 30

Joseph Perrier Brut – France – $ 26

Bollinger NV Brut – France – $ 40

Reserve Charles Ellner Brut – France – $ 40

Bob Kovacs from The Wine Seller in Geneva reminded me of Winston Churchill’s famous quote, “Champagne, in defeat you need it, in victory you deserve it.”

Happy Holidays and Greetings!

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