Worn or damaged shock absorbers are dangerous, have them checked regularly. Worn shock absorbers allow wheels to bounce and the body to roll and lean. Tire wear is accentuated due to irregular bumps encountered and braking efficiency is drastically reduced due to inadequate contact between the tires and the road.

Here are some important points to keep in mind:

LOOSE OR DAMAGED FITTINGS

Check that the fixings are firm, that there are no missing rubber bands and that all the screws are tight. The shock will not do its job unless it is well attached.

LEAKING SHOCK ABSORBER

Look for telltale blemishes on the unit. Make sure they are coming from the shock body and not thrown from the road, crankcase or transmission.

TESTING METHOD

When a testing machine is not available, a rough idea of ​​the condition of the shock absorbers can be obtained by the following method:

Bounce each corner of the car multiple times, dropping it at the bottom of the hit. Each corner should bounce to the top of its travel and then settle back to the normal position. If it bounces more than this, the shock should be replaced.

If it is difficult or impossible to bounce the car, it is likely that the shock has seized or has a bent piston rod, perhaps due to a faulty mounting bracket. Always use the correct tools for any job, this can never be overemphasized. The shock absorbing mount is no different. The following tools will make adjustment much easier:

spring compressor

brake hose clamp

Strut Bolt Clamp

· Torque Wrench There are three main types of shock absorbers, namely; the wet strut, the sealed strut and the telescopic strut.

Consult your owner’s manual for the type of your vehicle.

1. REPAIR OF A WET SUPPORT

These are the steps to follow for the repair of wet struts.

Step 1. Loosen the piston rod nut and back off one turn using the correct size socket wrench. Loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and make a match mark on one of the studs and the tire before removing the wheel. Use axle stands for safety.

Step 2. Clamp the coil spring with a spring compressor. Hold the brake hose and remove the spring clip, disconnect the brake hose fittings, do not spill brake fluid as it is corrosive.

Step 3. Disconnect the steering arm from the strut by removing the bolts. Remove the top three nuts and mark their position. Now, remove the strut along with the brake assembly by lifting them up.

Step 4. Move to a workbench and remove the old internal parts. Hold the strut with a strut clamp, compress the coil spring until it moves freely, and remove the nut from the piston rod. Note the position of the removed components so that they can be replaced in the correct sequence.

Step 5. Using the correct size wrench, remove the gland screw, be careful as you may need to reuse it. The function of the glans screw is to centralize and hold the internal ones. Remove old internals and check compatibility with new insert.

Step 6. Drain the oil and discard it. Clean the tube and threads with a solvent. Refill the tube with the required amount of oil, either SAE 30 or a suitable equivalent. The new insert can be slid into position.

Step 7. Carefully replace the glans screw and tighten it to the correct specification. Make sure the new insert is firmly seated in the tube and make sure the piston rod is centered with the correct amount of thread exposed. Prime unit well to circulate oil.

Step 8. Align the spring with the holes in the seat. Grease the bearings. Tighten the top nut just enough to secure the assembly. The unit can now be installed in the vehicle.

Step 9. Once securely in place, the top three locknuts should be tightened to the correct specification. Reattach the steering arm to the strut knuckle and tighten the piston rod nut to the correct specification. Replace the dust cap.

Step 10. Reconnect the brake hose fitting and replace the spring clip. Replace the wheel, make sure the match marks line up. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts.

Step 11. Bleed the brake line. It is recommended to check the tire pressure and wheel alignment and test drive the car. The wet strut repair is now complete.

REPLACING A SEALED STRUT

These are the steps to follow for the replacement of the front sealed strut:

Step 1. The procedure up to this stage is exactly the same for the sealed shock as it is for the wet shock, so we can go straight to disconnecting the brake hose. Grasp the hose, remove the spring clip and disconnect the brake hose.

Step 2. Note the position of the adjusting cam by notching the bottom bracket. Support the suspension with a jack to prevent it from falling. Remove the two set screws. The sealed strut can now be removed from the steering knuckle and lifted off.

Step 3. At a workbench, clamp the strut into a strut clamp and compress the coil spring until it moves freely. Remove the top nut and disassemble the components noting their position. Remove the old strut from the strut clamp and compare it to the new unit. Now place the new unit in the strut clamp.

Step 4. Make sure the new unit is properly primed and carefully replace components in the correct sequence, checking for wear or damage. Make sure the coil spring is aligned with the hole in the lower seat. The “out” mark stamped on the upper spring seat must face the outside of the vehicle. Tighten the top nut just enough to secure the assembled strut.

Step 5. Remove the spring compressor, the sealed strut is ready to put back on. Tighten the top three nuts to the correct specification. Replace the steering knuckle in the lower bracket. Apply oil to the threads of the bolts and insert them from the rear. Align the adjusting cam on the steering knuckle with the previously marked notch on the bottom bracket and tighten the nuts to specifications. Finally, tighten the piston rod nut to the manufacturer’s specifications and replace the dust cap. Reconnect the brake hose fittings and replace the spring clip. Bleed the brake line and it is recommended to check the tire pressure and wheel alignment and test drive the car.

2. REPLACING A TELESCOPIC SHOCK ABSORBER

Mounting a telescopic shock is much easier than mounting wet or sealed struts. However, there are always those small but important points to keep in mind. Don’t forget to lubricate the bushings, use a rubber lubricant, not oil. For studded applications, the top mount should be fully tightened only when the full weight of the car is on the wheels.

And remember, don’t overtighten the bushings. When installing adjustable shocks, follow the adjustment instructions on the package (4 settings). General Notes: To remove nuts, use Loctite penetrating oil. Never burn them. For stubborn nuts, use a “nutcracker” and throughout the job, always use the right tools. Before installing the new unit, make sure it is the correct one for the vehicle.

Prime unit before installing and check all components before replacing; if they are old and worn, they should be replaced as well. Do not hold the piston rod with pliers or place the unit on a target, you will damage it.

I hope this article helps you if you need to change or repair your car’s shock absorbers yourself.