A common aspect of the human condition is to focus on the product at the expense of the process. In reality, our work here is never completed until the heart stops beating. We build and acquire, plan and organize, dream and strive. In the heat of productivity, we often don’t appreciate the journey. I once took a yoga class where the instructor captured this idea wonderfully when she told us to spend more time focusing on the space between poses (that is, how it feels to get there) than on the pose itself. He invited us to dedicate our practice to reflecting on how our body feels and where our mind is going in the space between poses, as we flow from one pose to the next.
There is a man whose gift to the world is an unsurpassed architectural example of the heights to which we humans can soar when we pay attention to the space between a vision and a finished product. Russian-Canadian architect and creative genius Nick Troubetzkoy, who conceptualized and built Anse Chastanet followed by the new Jade Mountain on the island of Saint Lucia, worked painstakingly closely with other builders to create extraordinary beauty through light, the glass and space. He took advantage of the exquisite natural elements that surround his resort to create an exclusive luxury haven, so spectacular words cannot do it justice. One of his many distinctive creations is his columns that reach into the sky, an important part of the design at Jade Mountain. Some are designed to be topped with wire sculptures and others with glass designs created by David Knox of Lightstreams. What I found most interesting is how the columns also reflect Troubetzkoy’s appreciation for the process rather than the product. The columns are tall and proud but incomplete, reminding us that Troubetzkoy’s work is never finished, a true sign of creative genius.
In early September, I bought a copy of Caribbean Magazine from a newsstand at an airport in San José, Costa Rica. The magazine featured an article on the top ten Caribbean resorts. I was immediately intrigued by Anse Chastanet, a resort in St. Lucia overlooking the Caribbean Sea with a perfect view of the Piton Mountains. The appearance of this place appealed to me on several levels and I fantasized about spending a romantic honeymoon getaway on this lush tropical estate with my future husband.
Several weeks later, I emailed Karolin Troubetzkoy, CEO of Anse Chastanet / Jade Mountain and wife of Nick Troubetzkoy. On November 3, my husband and I boarded a 4.5-hour Delta flight from Atlanta to St. Lucia, bound for Anse Chastanet. Dreams really can come true! When we landed at Hewanorra International Airport and met our driver, we were informed that we were heading to Jade Mountain, Anse Chastanet’s companion complex built at a higher elevation on the same mountain. I knew that the two resorts were built, owned and managed by the Troubetzkoys, and despite the fact that they are both clearly magnificent, I felt a wave of disappointment as I expected to divide our time evenly between the two resorts. We were scheduled to spend our first few nights at Anse Chastanet before switching to Jade Mountain, and I was eager to experience a little of each. Now I was worried that our entire stay could be spent on Jade Mountain.
The winding mountain roads offered breathtaking views of the Caribbean Sea; colorful houses built next to the mountains and many small villages below. We twisted and turned towards Jade Mountain, watching the local children come home from school as we chatted with the driver about the island’s climate, cuisine, and lifestyle. I explained to the driver how we were sitting on the wrong side of the plane, as we only got a brief glimpse of the twin peaks during our approach to St. Lucia. He was eager to witness her majestic beauty in person.
Our driver explained that we would know precisely when we were approaching the resort because we would find the Petit and Gros Piton mountains behind us instead of in front of us. We passed the town of Soufriere on the island’s southwest coast and zigzagged up the final slope towards Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain on roads so bumpy I thought I was back in Costa Rica. True to the driver’s word, the twin peaks took their place behind us as we approached the complex. Santa Lucia is quite similar to Costa Rica in terms of topography, as the island is very lush and volcanic with black sand beaches and dense rainforest. Tourists visit Saint Lucia for its ecotourism and adventure appeal. Snorkeling and diving amidst coral reefs teeming with tropical fish and gliding over the forest on a zip line are favorite excursions in St. Lucia.
We received a very warm welcome at Jade Mountain where we were delivered a refreshing drink and a cool cloth with a mint / floral scent the moment we got out of the car. We were then rushed to our private sanctuary. When I entered the shrine, such a beautiful sight took me by surprise that tears welled up in my eyes and almost took my breath away. I didn’t know whether to jump from one side to the other or get on my knees and kiss the ground. We soon learned that being admitted to Jade Mountain instead of Anse Chastanet is a highly sought after upgrade that many regulars (of which there are many) spend all their time between visits waiting and praying. We realized the comic aspect of our earlier concern when we learned at the airport that we were heading to Jade Mountain instead of Anse Chastanet. Additionally, we learned that Jade Mountain guests have access to the amenities at both resorts (restaurants / spas / etc), while Anse Chastanet guests are not entitled to the amenities at Jade Mountain. We had no complaints.
The incredible beauty of this place is difficult to put into words. That’s why we took a lot of photos and video clips, but even these are not enough to convey the experience. On Jade Mountain there are three levels of shrines: stars, moon and sun. Just when you think you’ve witnessed the most fantastic vision one could ever hope to experience, think again, because Troubetzkoy doesn’t stop at perfection. His talents bridge the gap between heaven and earth. Once again, neither words nor photographs alone can describe the exquisiteness of this place.
We were lucky enough to spend two nights at JA2 sanctuary, a moon-level accommodation, which is considered a mid-level sanctuary a bit more glamorous and expansive than star sanctuaries, but less so than sun sanctuaries. The lack of a fourth wall, a unique Troubetzkoy concept offered at all levels of accommodation at Anse Chatanet / Jade Mountain, offered a direct frontal view of the Pitons rising from the Caribbean Sea, with puffy white clouds settling over the peaks like smoking waves. Troubetzkoy skillfully designed the place allowing guests to see outside, becoming one with nature, while no one can see inside; offering guests a deep sense of freedom, connection with nature and total privacy.
The cloud formations in Saint Lucia are breathtaking, and the sight of the twin peaks rising from the vast turquoise sea is breathtaking. All the moon and sun rooms at Jade Mountain feature a large private infinity pool that literally spills over the side of the resort and creates an illusion of infinite expansion and unity with the surrounding jungle and ocean. Immediately upon our arrival, we were handed a small cell phone with two buttons, one with the female symbol and the other male. We were informed that the female button rings at the front desk and the male button rings our personal Major Duomo, Vito, who is there to satisfy our every whim. During our stay, we cycled between two different Major Duomos, Vito and Okita, and they were both as warm and sociable as personal friends.
A king-size bed installed in a mosquito net faces the missing fourth wall next to the infinity pool, inviting guests to wake up in the morning and take a refreshing dip before starting the day. I loved waking up to the sight of sunrise and the proud twin peaks looming in the distance. One of Troubetzkoy’s many brilliant creations is his innovative fusion of color, light and glass. Each pool is made from recyclable iridescent glass tile and each sanctuary features a different color, from red to amber, plum, and stunning shades of blue and green. Our pool was a relaxing turquoise color, and I was especially intrigued by the rotating light that allowed guests to select their favorite color (or alternate colors) to illuminate the pool at night. Next to the pool there was a seating area where the loungers provided an ideal spot for sunbathing (birthday outfits accepted) or watching the sunset. Further into the sanctuary was a comfortable living room with a sofa, table, and chairs.
The Jade Mountain staff members, and indeed everyone we met in St. Lucia, were incredibly warm, caring, and genuine. On the evening of our arrival we were invited to the manager’s welcome party on the roof of Jade Mountain, where we enjoyed the pleasure of meeting Karolin Troubetzkoy. Ms. Troubetzkoy clearly enjoys interacting with her guests and making them feel welcome, as she also made an appearance on the second night of our stay at the Caribbean buffet on the beach at Anse Chastanet beach restaurant, where a steel drum band performed. It mixed with the sound of the waves crashing gently against the shore. We enjoyed talking with Kashmie, the Director of Operations, and Peter John Paul, the Deputy Executive Manager who works closely with both resorts and takes care of the wedding planning. Peter John Paul was courteous and patient as he shared interesting tidbits about the resorts and explained how easily the bride and groom can plan a wedding at Anse Chastanet / Jade Mountain. Once the date is confirmed, Peter John Paul takes care of the rest, from coordinating the cake and champagne to the flowers, the music and the photographer. The bride and groom can choose from a variety of wedding venues, ranging from the beach to the Jade Mountain Club (limited to Jade Mountain guests) or a private ceremony within their personal sanctuary. I wish planning my own wedding had been that easy!
My favorite hangout was Anse Chastanet beach, where guests are provided with comfortable lounges, thatched-roof cabanas, and a flag to hoist when restaurant / bar service is desired. Anse Chastanet offers a casual beachside bar and restaurant, which turns into a more upscale Indian restaurant in the evenings. This was my favorite of all the restaurants in Anse Chastanet / Jade Mountain, and there are several good options to choose from. On our first night we dined on the roof of the Jade Mountain Club with a wide view of the sea, where in daylight you can see all the way to San Vicente. The service was impeccable and the food delicious, with fresh fish dishes, seafood antipasto and many other delicacies to enjoy. Despite our wedding / travel fatigue, we enjoyed a luxurious four-course meal with dessert. For my birthday, my husband Glenn organized a private dinner for two on the beach at Anse Chastanet. The staff set up a special tent for us, with a table for two surrounded by tiki torches, where we dined on warm naan, spicy chicken curry, and fresh fish wrapped in a banana leaf. It was my favorite experience of the whole week. The only complaint I have about Anse Chastanet / Jade Mountain is that I had to leave. Thank you Nick and Karolin for giving us so many precious memories.
